Svalbard is an assault on the senses. This wondrous archipelago is the world’s most readily accessible bit of the polar north and one of the most spectacular places imaginable. Vast icebergs and floes choke the seas, and icefields and glaciers frost the lonely heights. But under close scrutiny, the harsh conditions reveal tiny gems as the Arctic desert soil, however barren-looking, manages to sustain lichens, miniature grasses and delicate little flowers. The environment supports larger creatures too: whales, seals, walruses, Arctic foxes, squat Svalbard reindeer – and polar bears aplenty, outnumbering us humans for the moment.Svalbard doesn’t come easy – especially on the pocket. It’s nearly a 1000km flight from the nearest major airport on the mainland and budget accommodation is very much at a premium. The independent traveller is a rare sight on islands; the vast majority of visitors arrive on an organised tour. We recommend signing up for group visits once arriving in Longyearbyen, the usual point of independent entry.Don’t discount a winter visit. There are plenty of outdoor activities to keep you rosy-cheeked and you’ll get more of a feel for Longyearbyen as a living community with a raison d’être of its own.What really bumps the cost up is the price of organised tours and activities. Since travel outside Longyearbyen is difficult at best and can be downright dangerous, you miss out on a lot if you don’t sign up for one or two. So, when you’re doing your pre-holiday sums, budget for a glacier walk, a boat trip or a mine visit and see if you can still make ends meet
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skomentuj (0)There’s a difficult choice to make as you head north. The spectacular Kystriksveien coastal route, ferry hopping and perhaps detouring to take in a glacier and offshore island or two? Or the almost-as-stunning inland Arctic Highway, more direct but still lightly trafficked?Whichever you choose, try to build in time to take in Lofoten, a necklace of offshore islands with razor-sharp peaks and Caribbean-coloured bays. Here, cod is still king, as manifested in the small fishing museums, rorbuer (fishing cabins – literally ‘rowers’ dwellings’) and rickety drying frames. Connected by bridges and with reasonable public transport, the islands are easy to hop around. Then again, you may want to linger and hire a bike or pull on your boots; the cycling can even be done by softies and the hiking is as gentle or as tough as you care to make it. Push further north to Andenes, at the northern tip of Andøya, a continuation of the Lofoten archipelago, and you’ll enjoy the best whale watching in all Norway.As you move northwards through the long, narrow Nordland region, the crossing of the Arctic Circle is almost palpable; fields give way to lakes and forests, vistas open up, summits sharpen and the tree line descends ever lower on the mountainsides. In summer, this is where northbound travellers get their first taste of the midnight sun; in winter, the northern lights slash the night sky.In addition to Nordland, this chapter also includes the northeastern section of Vesterålen, a continuation of the Lofoten archipelago that belongs to the county of Troms.
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skomentuj (0)Two beautiful, vibrant cities and some of Norway’s most scenic fjord country make for a wonderful combination. If you’re short on time (and even if you’re not) and looking for the best that Norway has to offer, this could just be the region to visit.Bergen is one of the world’s most beautiful cities, laid out across harbours and hillsides. It’s also rich in history and architecture, especially in the quayside Bryggen district. But this is a city that is anything but stuck in the past with a dynamic cultural life, great restaurants and nightlife. To the south, Stavanger may not match Bergen for architecture, but its old quarter, terrific museums and feel-good vibe make it a must-see. Even better, both Bergen and Stavanger serve as gateways to the fjords you always dreamed of. Hardangerfjord and its tributaries are quite simply magnificent. Villages beneath precipitous cliffs find their most stunning manifestation in little Eidfjord where farms clinging to high ledges, dizzying waterfalls and Norway’s best nature centre provide interest to add to the undeniable beauty. Ulvik, Utne and Kinsarvik also provide perfect vantage points onto this perfect world, while Stalheim allows you to look deep into the valley from its eyrie-like perch. If the plunging landscapes inspire you to do likewise, Voss should be high on your list, where a range of high-energy, high-altitude thrills await.To the south, Lysefjord might just be Norway’s most recognisable image, whether high on Pulpit Rock (Preikestolen) or balancing atop Kjeragbolten. These are places where a frisson of fear draws you to the edge, where you’ll stand, amazed, at Norway’s extraordinary beauty.
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Hemmed by a ‘fjord’ and kilometres of woodland, Norway’s capital is an easy-going city with an eclectic architectural mix of old, new and just plain 1960s that is hard not to like. The perfect size for exploring on foot, the city boasts world-class museums, a lively nightlife and plenty of outdoor activities for the energetic.Most visitors will find themselves struggling to choose between Oslo’s numerous museums, which offer something for almost every taste: a face-to-face with the haunting image of Edvard Munch’s The Scream at the National Gallery, a chance to stand in the shoes of an Olympic ski-jumper at the Holmenkollen Ski Museum, or a window into history and culture at the unforgettable Viking Ship, Polarship Fram or Folk Museums on Bygdøy. And Oslo is certainly the cosmopolitan heart of Norway, with a rapidly growing café and bar culture, top-notch restaurants, and nightlife options ranging from world-class opera and jazz to indie rock.But many Oslo residents, being avid hikers, skiers and sailors, will fondly tell you that what they love most about their city is how easy it is to leave the city life behind. Located at the head of the Oslofjord (which actually isn’t a fjord, but is pretty anyway), Oslo is one of Europe’s largest capitals in terms of area (450 sq km) but smallest population-wise. As a result, it is the only European capital that boasts cycling, hiking, ice-skating, kayaking, sailing and skiing, all within its city limits and a short train ride away.
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Norwegians are at once fiercely independent and keen to engage with the world and this can lead to contradictions. For example, you may come across staunch environmentalists who take pride in their government’s controversial stance on commercial whaling, seeing threats not to the animals but to a traditional Norwegian industry and Norwegian freedom of action. You’ll find even more who agonise over whether Norway should join the EU, fearful of the sovereignty they will lose, yet aware that they have a responsibility to
engage with their neighbours to the south and east. But above all else you’ll find Norwegians who speak numerous languages, have travelled widely and who love nothing more than to welcome visitors to their country.Norwegians love the great outdoors and they take very seriously the ancient law of allemansretten (literally ‘every man’s right’), whereby public access to wild areas is guaranteed, even in long, dark winters when they take to the wilderness on cross-country skis. That’s not to say they don’t welcome summer – they do, they almost worship it, aware that it may only last for two months. Norwegians are generally good-natured, but in summer they
positively glow with infectious good humour.A strong egalitarian streak runs through Norwegian society as does an awareness of the country’s history. Ostentatious displays of wealth are frowned upon, partly because many older Norwegians remember a time
when life was a struggle and the country was poor. Although some complain that the old ways of community and solidarity are disappearing, most Norwegians agree with international assessments that Norway is easily the world’s most livable country.
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